We quickly realized that the front area in our 2017 Lexor TS could be put to better use while camping.
To provide more versatility we installed a platform to extend the floor space, added a Lagun table and installed an AC outlet with a built in USB charger. We tried two different table tops. The first one was a 24″ round table that you can see in the last image below. The second one shown in the image above is the design that we settled on to get more desktop space. The Lagun table top base had to be a little off center (about two inches) on the long side to maximize the space between the closet wall and the steering wheel.
Designing the platform was a challenge as I wanted it to be removable and also support the Lagun table. Hopefully the images below will help you visualize how I ended up putting it together. It fits firmly in to the space and does not interfere with the opening of the closet door or side door. It’s important to offset it a bit from the black tank cover behind the driver’s seat to allow the desktop to swivel on the post. The 3/4 inch end piece that the Lagun mount is attached to provided the necessary offset. The loose carpet edges that look so unfinished in the image actually help it blend in to the space once its seated.
One important note. The Lagun post has to be the “longer” version for it to work well in the front area. The standard post will leave the table a little low to work well with the height of the passenger seat.
Installing the outlet required us to run a 12/2 Romex cable from the breaker panel on the driver’s side ottoman, through the floor, along the left side underneath the chassis, in through the firewall and to the console. The entire run was also encased in a split loom protective cover. I initially used a black plate with a black outlet but ended up changing the outlet to a grey one. The black one was camouflaged too well and was difficult to see in low light conditions.
Location of Existing Grommet in Firewall
Grey AC Outlet with USB Charger in Place on Console
Front Lounge with Round Tabletop and Original “Hard to See” Black Outlet
The new space is terrific to have and allows us to spread out a bit more. It also allows one of us to be sleeping while the other is up later or earlier. It’s my favorite spot to catch up on the news and enjoy a cup of coffee in the morning!
Our 2017 Lexor TS was originally equipped with a rather short RV sewer hose storage tube that would allow us to carry a five foot hose at best. The tube also had a small diameter that limited our choice of aftermarket connectors.
I replaced the tube with an adjustable length storage tube that would allow us to adjust the length from 43″ to 80″. The extra length proved to be helpful for both storage and locating suitable mounting points.
Full Length Image of RV Sewer Hose Storage Tube
The mounting tabs on the new tube were unusable and in the way so I trimmed them off with a handy folding jab saw (with the metal blade installed) that I keep in my onboard kit.
To mount the new tube I created some mounting straps. I determined the length of each strap by wrapping a single piece of strapping around the tube and lining its ends up with the intended mounting points. Once that was done I made the final mounting strap by bending the strapping back on itself. I found that three layers was just right to create the proper combination of rigidity and flexibility. The cutter included on the set of lineman pliers that I carry in my onboard kit was perfect for cutting the strapping. The pliers were also useful to flatten the strap at each end where it had been folded over. I then wrapped black Gorilla tape around the straps to hold them together. I used stainless steel strapping but the galvanized type readily found at the hardware store would probably be fine. I would recommend treating the cut ends of galvanized strap with Por15.
The existing holes that had held the OEM tube were reused for the first two mounting straps. Two additional holes were required for the last support. I applied Por15 to the existing and new holes with a small tipped artist brush and used stainless self tapping screws at each point to prevent corrosion. When using Por15 I highly recommend wearing gloves. If any gets on your hands you’ll have a dickens of a time getting it off. Also it’s a good idea to store any unused Por15 in a small airtight plastic container. If you put the lid back on the can you may never get the lid off again and will have to punch through the lid to reach the contents.
When mounting you’ll want to position the tube so that it slopes toward the opening to allow drainage and to keep the hose at that end of the tube for easy access. Also remember to make sure that it’s easy to open the tube door. I found that allowing it to swing down towards the ground was the best option.
Front of RV Sewer Hose Storage Tube with Door Open
Once the tube was in the correct position I used a piece of Gorilla tape placed across each mounting strap to hold the tube in place.
The new RV sewer hose storage tube will hold a 15ft hose but I find that a 10ft hose is adequate and leaves some extra room to store other adapters if needed. The longer hose is helpful for reaching drains that are further away and for allowing the tanks to be emptied when the destination drain is higher than the empty point on the van. The extra length allows you to use the “slinky’ method to move the waste along. It takes some patience but the job will eventually get done!
The rear corners on our 2017 Lexor TS were covered with some easy to remove plastic panels that provided access to the back of the taillight assemblies. I thought the area could be put to better use so I designed some panels to fit the space. They have added some nice functionality where none existed before.
The panels are made out of 1/4 inch thick poplar and are finished them with some black stain to make them blend in to the corners.
Both panels include a dimmable 2700K reading light, a folding drink holder that serves as a small shelf and a 2-port USB charger.The passenger side panel also powers the security camera and contains a 12V “cigarette” outlet to provide power for tire pumps, fans, etc.
The Coachproxy automation system that I described in a previous post controls the panel reading lights and our security camera.
Screenshot of Coachproxy on iPhone
The process that I followed is below.
Removed the stock panels, laid them on the poplar panels, traced the outline and marked the screw holes.
Cut out the panels with a coping saw and drilled the holes.
Mounted the panels and decided where to mount the items that I had chosen.
Marked off the chosen positions and assembled the board. It was important to position the items with the bed raised and lowered to support both settings.
I chose the run some 14/3 Marine wire from the driver’s side ottoman to each panel so that I could tie the lights and camera in to the Spyder board but it would also be easy to just tie them in to the house battery. I’d recommend using something like the Blue Sea Fuse block below to protect each connection.
The photos below may help with visualizing what’s entailed in the project.
A Harvest Host stay at Barrel Oak Winery in Virginia
Our spot for the night in Old Town Alexandria in Virginia
We have found that that we are more comfortable and that the systems in our little Class B work better when we are level. Early on in our ownership experience we found that it was not possible to use leveling blocks where we wanted to stay. Urban sites presented the biggest challenge. There just wasn’t much room to move back and forth in a 22 foot parallel parking space with a 21 foot van. We found what looked like a great solution in the E&P Leveling system and had it installed at Advanced RV in May of 2018. We couldn’t be happier with it.
A quick stop for dinner in the Scott’s Addition area of Richmond, Virginia
It is incredibly convenient to arrive at a site, choose the best view and just push a button to be level in about 3 minutes. We really appreciate the system when we happen to arrive at a site during a driving rain storm and don’t even have to step outside to set up camp. This capability alone is great but we have found that it can do so much more.
The wobble as you move around inside is gone. Once the lifts are down it feels like someone has built a foundation under the van.
Our waste outlet is fairly close to the ground. The ability to level and lift the van when emptying the tanks has made the task much easier and more efficient.
The system has also allowed us to easily get out of some sites with bad traction. We simply lift the wheels off the ground, put some traction underneath them and drive away.
It’s also nice to have that extra space available in the trunk that the leveling blocks used to occupy.
Here’s a little video that ARV did while we were there.
Our wintertizing valve access bay was covered with a panel that was mounted with four screws. I’ve always thought that there might be a better way and finally got around to making the improvement today.
Here are the steps that I followed:
I removed the paneling drew a vertical line 1/8 of an inch and 3/4 of an inch from the left edge.
I measured 2.5″ down from the top and the bottom and drew a small intersecting line across the vertical line.
I drilled a small pilot hole with a 1/16″ drill bit at each intersection.
I then inserted a 1-3/8″ Forstner bit in to the pilot hole and created the hole for the pocket hinge.
I then inserted the hinge in the hole and lined it up with the 1/8″ line.
I made a hole with a 1/16″ drill bit in the center of each hinge screw holes.
I screwed the hinges to the panel.
I then inserted a couple of bumpers into the original holes on the rear of the panel and inserted some black #10 1/2″ screws in to the holes on the front side with a small dab of caulk to hold them in place. I decided to use the screws to give the impression that the panel was still secured and not easily accessible storage.
I headed to the van and held the door at the desired height and made marks with a sharpie on the plastic moulding at the top and bottom of each hinge.
I then cut the front and the back of the moulding inside each mark and then trimmed off the piece on the front and rear to accommodate the width of the hinge.
I then patched the holes in the cabinet with a patching stick.
I then held the door in place and marked the moulding where the screw hole met it. I drilled a hole in the center of each mark.
I then screwed the hinges into place.
I then cleaned up the marks on the panel and the frame with a Mr. Clean eraser.
I’ve got a few ideas on how to safely use the new space and still respect that warning sticker. I’ll share what I end up settling on in a followup.
Here’s what I used on the project that may not be in the normal tool box . I’m going to assume that everyone has a drill, drill bits and a pencil.
Screenshots of the Coachproxy Interface on my iPhone.
Our 2017 Pleasure-Way Lexor TS is equipped with a Spyder Controls multiplex board. The board provides centralized control and fusing for the DC appliances throughout the van. Each control panel is connected to the board with a low voltage network cable instead of the heavier copper wiring that more traditional switches and controls require.
After about 4 years of use one of our control panels started to develop some issues so I contacted Spyder to discuss our options to replace it. Our only option was to replace the panel with the same part. Rather than proceed down this path I started to research the system. I’m glad that I did because it opened up a whole new realm of control and automation.
My research led me to the open source Coachproxy project on Github and then on to a related open source project named myErvin. MyErvin is the creation of Rob Ervin. It takes the basics of Coachproxy and builds some nice automation routines around it. I have posted my basic Node-Red flow for the 2017 Lexor TS OEM configuration to the myErvin site. Even though the flow is designed for a 2017 Lexor TS it will be a good start for any Spyder Control board-equipped Pleasure-Way.
So what’s going on here? In summary, the system turns the whole Spyder board in to an MQTT-accessible device that you can control with an open source program called Node Red. Node Red is a program that allows you to program a web interface by using pre-programmed objects. It’s designed to minimize the amount of programming knowledge needed to design a web application. MQTT is the protocol behind many of the home automation systems that you may already be familiar with. It allows devices to use a typical wired or wireless ethernet network to report their status and control one another. MQTT has wide support and you’ll find that there are a lot a resources to help you learn and use it.
You may set up the system to be entirely local and benefit from the enhanced automation and control. Adding in a cellular hotspot will take it to another level by providing remote access. On our installation I used a WiFi Ranger unit that allows a choice of wireless relay, cellular service or a combination of the two to increase bandwidth. You may find out more about that installation by clicking here.
I followed Rob’s excellent instructions and had my Raspberry Pi connected to the Spyder board within a few hours. I did vary a bit from his instructions and used a Raspberry Pi 4b that I already had on hand. The Rasberry Pi 4b requires more power so I opted to connect it to the Spyder board’s main 12V power terminal in lieu of drawing power from the Spyder board’s data port connection. Its extra power and capacity are currently overkill but may come in handy for some future functions that I have in mind. The Raspberry Pi is now out of sight and is located in the ottoman space beneath the board. I’ve connected it to one of the available data ports on the back of the board.
Victron Cerbo GX and Raspberry Pi running Coachproxy in Driver’s Side Ottoman Location
Next I had to spend some time learning Node-Red and how it interacted with my Pleasure-Way configured board. The primary tool that I used was MQTT Explorer on OSX. I used it to determine which command was being sent each time I pressed a button on the control panel. The pattern became fairly obvious after a few minutes and I was on my way to developing flows in Node-Red. My configuration file should help most of you avoid this step. I would still encourage you to set up and use MQTT Explorer. It will come in handy if you find that something is not responding as expected or when you are trying to add items that are not part of the OEM configuration.
The Spyder board has 3 types of cards that you may want to interact with. On my board the top card was a “dimmer card” and had all of the existing interior lights attached to its pins. The second card was an “I/O card”. The third was a “non-dimmable card” that controlled other appliances. I ended up adding a second “dimmer card” (second from the top in the image below) between the original cards 1 and 2 to add 12 more addressable ports. Each dimmable port on the stock board can control dimmable or non-dimmable items that draw up to 5A. The second card that I added can support items that draw up to 7A.
Rear of Spyder Control Board with New Dimmer Card Installed
At this point I’ve gained control of all of the items that were controlled by the original panels and have added control of the awning, awning lights, rear corner reading lights and interior camera. I’ve also upgraded my house electric system with a number of components from Victron and have incorporated them in to the interface through the Victron Cerbo GX’s built in MQTT server. Next on my list are the Belair A/C, MaxxAir ceiling fan, Truma water heater and Atwood/Dometic heater. I’ll share the details of those additions in later posts.
The project has really added some nice functionality and convenience to life in our van. Neither one of us uses the built in panels very often now. It’s more convenient to use our iPhones, iPads or Siri.
